Denali 2012

In June of 2012, I attempted a climb of the tallest mountain on the North American continent.  Mt. McKinley, known by its native name of Denali, stands at 20,320ft above sea level.

View of Denali (20,320ft) on approach from airplane
View of Denali (20,320ft) rising above the clouds while on approach via airplane

After months of preparation and weeks of climbing, our team arrived on the final ridge before the summit and cached our gear at 16,400ft, with plans to make the final push the following day.  Little did we know the snowstorm that would come that evening.  We awoke in the middle of the night to dig our tents free from a foot of fresh snow, all the while facing -20°F temperatures.

Our tents burried in the snowstorm
Our tents buried in the snowstorm

By morning, we knew that our summit attempt would, at the very least, be delayed.  After digging snow pits and testing the avalanche conditions, the guides determined that the path to the summit was far to dangerous to continue.  We waited it out for 10 days at 14,000ft camp waiting for the snowpack to improve but eventually we were forced to descend.  We were the last climbers of the season and it would be another year before climbers returned to the ridge and retrieved our gear.

Testing avalanche conditions in snowpit
Testing avalanche conditions in snow pit

While it was disappointing to come up short of the summit, I am thankful for the wisdom of our guides who made the right decision so that we can continue to climb another day.  Just a few weeks prior, 4 men caught in an avalanche were not so fortunate.

Denali 16,400ft ridge where we left our gear
Denali 16,400ft ridge where we left our gear

I will return to Denali in 2014 with the hopes of better conditions and a successful summit.  In the meantime, I am greatly encouraged by the support that we raised for the church building in Rolpa, Nepal.  With your support, we raised over $4,000 to build a church in the rural Himalayan village.  Thanks to your faithfulness, an entire culture is being impacted by the Gospel.

Everest Base Camp Trek – Nepal 2010

In May of 2010, the day after graduating from Texas A&M University, I boarded a plane to Kathmandu, Nepal, with plans to solo trek to the base camp of Mount Everest.  The journey is recounted below, as transcribed from my travel journal.

May 16, 2010

  • Depart IAH bound for Doha, Qatar

May 17

  • Arrive in Doha, Qatar
  • Transfer and depart for Kathmandu, Nepal

May 18

  • Arrive in Kathmandu, Nepal
  • Share a taxi ride into what I thought was Thamel
  • Wound up being dropped off a couple of miles away
  • Wander the streets until finding way back to Thamel and check in at the Kathmandu Guest House
  • Head into town and register for a trekking permit
  • Wander town looking for bus station
  • Two hours later purchase what I believe to be a bus ticket to Jiri
Getting settled into my budget room at the Kathmandu Guest House
Getting settled into my budget room at the Kathmandu Guest House

May 19

  • Navigate bus station and find my bus with the help of a local
  • Ride with Nepalese passengers for 10 hrs through the most dangerous roads into the Himalayas
  • Arrive in Jiri and settle in at the Cherdung Lodge for the evening
My first taste of the local staple Dal bhat
My first taste of the local staple Dal bhat

May 20 – Jiri to Bhandar

  • Man at lodge offers to be my guide and carry my bag for $20/day – I turn down the offer
  • Lodge owner sends me off with a silk prayer scarf
  • Greeted at the trailhead by a kid pooping in the street
  • Follow a German guy’s porter to Shivalaya where he stops for the day
  • Now I am on my own for the first time as I trek to Bhandar – complete exhaustion
  • Meet Australian guy named Andrew at Deorali, nice to hear English
  • While sleeping at the teahouse, a nasty cat jumps on me in the middle of the night
Jiri, Nepal
Jiri, Nepal

May 21 – Bhandar to Sete

  • Got lost for the first time, local kids yell at me, “Hello!, This way!”
  • Very friendly guy in Kinja, laughed at how heavy my pack is
  • Rain starts at Chimbu
  • Stayed in teahouse in Sete where at least 30 stone workers were smoking hashish

May 22 – Sete to Junbesi

  • Crossed a mountain pass at a higher elevation than Namche
  • Bunches of mule herds on the path
  • Walked through the clouds today
  • Met dude building one of those temple things (stupa), wanted me to donate
He seemed friendly enough, but I wasn't buying it
He seemed friendly enough, but I wasn’t buying it

May 23 – Junbesi to Nunthala

  • Met Sarah, a firefighter from D.C. who had been living in Iraq
  • Asked God for clouds, got mad when He gave me hot sun
  • Hard rain all afternoon, muddy, slippery trail
  • First view of the Himalayan peaks
  • Met Brad, 3rd time in Nepal, retired IT consultant, English teacher
Hiking through the forest of Rhododendrons
Hiking through the forest of Rhododendrons

May 24 – Nunthala to Bupsa

  • Ran into Malaysians making a documentary about climbing Mera Peak, one 72 year old
  • Malay talked about John Wayne and Roy Williams
  • At Bupsa, sat down with Brad, Sarah, and new guy Ian who had just spent a month traveling India
Malaysians filming their documentary
Malaysians filming their documentary

May 25 – Bupsa to Phakding

  • Longest day of trekking since Jiri to Bhandar
  • Clear skys, warm weather, beautiful peaks
  • Saw planes going into and out of Lukla
  • After a 10 hour trekking day, ran into Brad at the lodge
  • God is sustaining me
  • Excited about Namche
Nepalese porters hauling 100kg loads to Namche
Nepalese porters hauling 100kg loads to Namche

May 26 – Phakding to Namche Bazaar

  • Slept in really late and didn’t start hiking until 9AM
  • Now past Lukla, there are LOTS of people on the trail including trekking groups
  • Shortest day yet – 5hrs including lunch break
  • Arrived in Namche and played pool with Brad and Ian in Cafe Daphne while Lynyrd Skynyrd’s “That Smell” played in the background
  • Ate dinner at the lodge and ordered the “Steak Sizzler” which was Yak meat
Namche Bazaar, Nepal
Namche Bazaar, Nepal

May 27 – Namche Bazaar Rest Day

  • Ate a delicious pizza at Everest Bakery
  • Bought a knock off Mountain Hardwear down jacket for 2500r ~$33
  • Last dinner together with Brad, Sarah, and Ian
  • Buddha’s birthday is today
  • Followed the parade procession to the monastery where they served yak tea
Buddha's Birthday at the monastery in Namche
Buddha’s Birthday at the monastery in Namche

May 28 – Namche Bazaar to Tengboche

  • Met Nepali, Hemu, who graduated from the University of South Florida
  • Toured a monastery and met Bob, a Christian missionary who spent 9 years in Nepal
  • Bob was trekking with brother Larry and has many stories about God’s work in the region
  • Met guy from Minneapolis who had been a boat captain on the show Deadliest Catch
  • Met 3 Sikhs from Canada who were very funny
  • Ate my first apple pie – very delicious
Apparently Jimmy Carter stayed at the Khumbu Lodge
Apparently Jimmy Carter stayed at the Khumbu Lodge

May 29 – Tengboche to Dingboche

  • Incredible views of Ama Dablam
  • Passed by runners competing in The Everest Marathon
  • Met a guy named Mark and mother who were struck with altitude sickness in the middle of the night and had to descend immediately
These guys put me to shame
These guys put me to shame

May 30 – Dingboche Rest Day

  • Summitted the nearby peak of Nangkartshang, 16,797ft
  • Met James, 23, from New Zealand
Summit of Nangkartshang, 16,797ft
Summit of Nangkartshang, 16,797ft

May 31 – Dingboche to Lobuche

  • Beautiful peaks on all sides, clear skies
  • Last to leave, first to arrive
  • Memorials to fallen climbers on Everest, very sad
  • “Every stone you suffer, in the end, it will make you happy” -fellow trekker-
  • Contracted the “Khumbu Cough”
Memorials to the fallen climbers of Everest
Memorials to the fallen climbers of Everest

June 1 – Lobuche to Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp

  • A stray dog led the entire way to Base Camp
  • Arrived at Everest Base Camp with Hemu, his guide, Julian the Frenchman, and stray dog
  • We named the dog “Sherpa”
  • Snapped some celebratory pictures and headed back to Gorak Shep
  • Began snowing on the return to Gorak Shep
  • Camera is now giving lens error and may not work tomorrow
"Sherpa" dog at Everest Base Camp
“Sherpa” dog at Everest Base Camp

June 2 – Gorak Shep to Kala Pattar to Periche

  • Left at 4:10AM, freezing cold, summitted ~5:20AM
  • Watched sunrise over Everest, lots of pictures
  • “Peace be still, and know that I am God.” Psalm 46:10
  • Tried some local Raksi (rice wine), tastes like sake
Sunrise over Mt. Everest (29,029ft) to the left, and Lhotse (27,940ft) to the right
Sunrise over Mt. Everest (29,029ft) to the left, and Lhotse (27,940ft) to the right

June 3 – Periche to Namche

  • Met Andrea, Norwegian, at lunch and walked to Namche
  • Got a bag I left at Khumbu Lodge and stayed at Namche Hotel
  • Cannot sleep, barking dog
  • Caught up with Brad at dinner, more yak steak
Yak Steak
Yak Steak

June 4 – Namche to Lukla

  • Ran into Christians Bob and Larry on trail
  • They were with Thupten the Buddhist monk converted follower of Christ
  • Thupten ties a Tibetan prayer flag to the suspension bridge and proclaims, “Prayers for Jesus!”
  • Weather is bad here, no planes have left today
  • Got a 6:15AM ticket for $115, hope weather clears
  • Shared in Communion and prayer with Thupten, Larry, Bob, & Joshua
"Prayers for Jesus"
“Prayers for Jesus”

June 5 – Lukla to Kathmandu

  • 7AM flight out, clouds, left around noon
  • Small plane, roller coaster ride, not good for motion sickness
  • Check in at Tasi Dhargey Inn with private bath for 400 rupees ~$5
  • Qatar Airways office closed on Saturdays, lost pen on the way
  • Bought knock off Teva sandals for 650r
  • Delicious pizza at Fire & Ice, internet cafe, drinks at Sam’s

June 6 – Kathmandu Rest Day

  • Qatar Airways won’t adjust travel agency ticket
  • Travel agency helped move departure up to the 13th
  • Purchased bus ticket to the Chitwan jungle for 300r each way
  • Ran into the Canadians again and ate at Fire & Ice
  • Turns out I was the only one who flew out of Lukla that day and the others had been stuck
  • Ate an all beef hamburger for dinner

June 7 – Kathmandu to Chitwan

  • Woke up with the runs, beef was a bad choice
  • Started taking ciprofloxacin from Indian pharmacy
  • Paid some kid on the street 10r to use their bathroom
  • Bus driver let me sit in the front of the bus because of sickness
  • Crazy dangerous roads along cliffs once again
  • Checked into the Holiday Safari Hotel as recommended by Hemu
  • Owner insists it is pronounced “Holy-Day Safari”
  • Saw wild rhinos extremely close in the river, very rare
  • Watched sunset over jungle river
Relaxing along the river in the Chitwan Jungle
Relaxing along the river in the Chitwan Jungle

June 8 – Chitwan Jungle

  • Canoe ride down the river, elephant breeding center, jungle hike
  • Elephant Bath in river
  • Rode an elephant through the jungle with a couple from the Netherlands
  • Saw deer and rhinos
  • Meet up with Hemu + Canadians and their guide
  • Attend the Tharu people cultural dance night, dude is dressed as giant peacock on stage
Our elephant ride guide
Our elephant ride guide

June 9 – Chitwan Jungle

  • Rode bike to “20,000 Lake” looking for tigers and wildlife, mostly just birds
  • Another elephant bath in the river, delayed bus until tomorrow
  • Met some drunk guys under a tree who said they drank 9 bottles of Raksi/day
  • Went into the Jungle and spent the night in an observation tower with some French friends
  • Observed lots of deer and a wild boar
Elephant bath, moments before the elephant shake me off into the river
Elephant bath, moments before the elephant shakes me off into the river

June 10 – Chitwan to Kathmandu

  • A bus tipped over on one of the road’s cliffs
  • Stuck in traffic for an extra 3 hours
  • Met up with the Canadian guys again on Mandala street hung out at the coffee shop
  • Ate dinner at The New Orleans and watched the city lights from a hotel rooftop

June 11 – Durbar Square, Kathmandu

  • Visited Durbar Square and Freak Street
  • People are worshiping a little girl as a reincarnated goddess
  • Bought a bunch of souvenirs for family and friends
  • Coffee shop guy says the average Nepalese salary is 6000r/month ~$83
  • Street hustlers pester you to sell drugs and women, Canadians and I run them away
Durbar Square, Nepal
Durbar Square, Nepal

June 12 – Monkey Temple, Kathmandu

  • Took a rickshaw ride over to the Monkey Temple
  • Huge line of people waiting to give offerings of food and money
  • Some middle school boys showed me around town as we searched for a USA soccer jersey
  • Hung out at the Funky Buddha and enjoyed some Hookah waiting for World Cup to start
  • Headed over to Tom & Jerry’s to watch the USA vs England soccer match at 12:15AM
  • Watched the game with a table of guys from Connecticut, Holland, Switzerland, Hong Kong, Germany, and the UK
Overseer at the Monkey Temple
Overseer at the Monkey Temple

June 13, 2010 – Last Day in Kathmandu

  • Packed bags, very strange feeling
  • Visit Pashupatinath, the holy Hindu temple and site of cremation along the river
  • Observe a cremation ceremony and Sadhus (Hindu Holy Men)
  • Finished shopping to buy last-minute trinkets
  • Enjoyed final dinner of pizza at Fire & Ice
  • Heading home
Hindu Sadhus at Pashupatinath
Hindu Sadhus at Pashupatinath